When it comes to sewing and garment construction, understanding the subtle differences between interfacing and interlining is crucial for creating professional, well-structured clothing. Many beginners and even some experienced sewists confuse these two components, but they serve distinct purposes in garment making. Both interfacing and interlining contribute to the shape, durability, and finish of clothing, yet they are applied differently and offer unique benefits. Choosing the right material for your project can significantly impact the final appearance and functionality of your garment, from crisp collars and reinforced cuffs to insulated jackets and tailored coats.
What is Interfacing?
Interfacing is a textile material used primarily to provide structure, support, and reinforcement to specific areas of a garment. It is typically applied to parts of clothing that require extra stability, such as collars, cuffs, waistbands, plackets, buttonholes, and lapels. Interfacing can be fused, sew-in, or non-woven, depending on the desired effect and fabric type. Fused interfacing has a heat-activated adhesive on one side, allowing it to bond directly to the garment fabric using an iron. Sew-in interfacing, on the other hand, is stitched into the garment and does not require adhesive. Interfacing is available in various weights, from lightweight for delicate fabrics to heavyweight for jackets and coats.
Key Functions of Interfacing
- Provides structural support to maintain garment shape.
- Prevents fabric from stretching or distorting during wear.
- Enhances durability in areas that undergo stress, such as buttonholes or collars.
- Improves the overall professional appearance of the garment.
- Available in different weights and types to match fabric requirements.
What is Interlining?
Interlining is a layer of fabric inserted between the outer fabric and the lining of a garment, primarily for added warmth, comfort, and insulation. Unlike interfacing, which focuses on structural support, interlining emphasizes functionality such as heat retention and softness. Interlining is commonly found in coats, jackets, blazers, and other winter garments. It can be made from natural fibers like cotton or wool, synthetic fibers like polyester, or blends, and it may be sewn, quilted, or fused. While interlining may provide some degree of support, its main purpose is insulation and enhancing the drape of the garment rather than reinforcing specific areas.
Key Functions of Interlining
- Provides thermal insulation and warmth to garments.
- Improves the drape and body of the clothing.
- Acts as a soft barrier between outer fabric and lining.
- Can contribute to the garment’s weight and thickness for structured designs.
- Enhances comfort, particularly in cold-weather garments.
Main Differences Between Interfacing and Interlining
Understanding the differences between interfacing and interlining is essential for selecting the appropriate material for your sewing project. The main differences can be summarized in terms of purpose, placement, and material characteristics
Purpose
Interfacing is used to provide shape, strength, and reinforcement to specific areas of a garment. Interlining, in contrast, is used primarily for warmth, comfort, and enhancing the overall body or drape of the garment.
Placement
Interfacing is applied directly to certain parts of the garment, often fused or sewn into the fabric. Interlining is placed between the garment’s outer fabric and lining, covering larger areas rather than targeting specific structural points.
Material Characteristics
Interfacing materials are often stiffer and more supportive, available in woven, non-woven, and knit forms. Interlining fabrics are typically softer, thicker, and more insulating, designed to add comfort and warmth rather than rigidity.
Weight and Flexibility
Interfacing comes in different weights, but even heavyweight interfacing is relatively firm compared to interlining. Interlining is generally thicker and more flexible, contributing to insulation without significantly altering the garment’s intended shape.
Choosing the Right Material
Selecting between interfacing and interlining depends on the specific needs of your garment. For example, a tailored blazer may require interfacing in the collar and lapels to maintain a crisp appearance, while interlining in the body can add warmth and structure. Winter coats often use both materials simultaneously interfacing for reinforced edges and buttonholes, and interlining for thermal insulation. Considering the fabric type is also important; lightweight fabrics may require a light fusible interfacing to avoid stiffness, while heavy outerwear benefits from thicker interlining to retain heat.
Tips for Using Interfacing
- Always test the interfacing on a fabric scrap before applying to the main garment.
- Choose a weight that complements the fabric to avoid excess stiffness or sagging.
- Fused interfacing should be applied carefully with an iron at the correct temperature and pressure.
- Sew-in interfacing is ideal for delicate fabrics that cannot withstand heat.
- Use interfacing strategically in stress-prone areas such as button plackets and collars.
Tips for Using Interlining
- Select interlining material based on the desired level of warmth and softness.
- Ensure interlining is evenly distributed to avoid uneven bulk in the garment.
- Quilted interlining can add both insulation and decorative texture.
- Consider fusible interlining for simpler application and reduced sewing time.
- Use interlining in larger garment sections, such as the body of coats and jackets.
Common Applications in Garment Construction
Interfacing and interlining have unique applications in different types of clothing. For instance, shirts, blouses, and formal dresses often use interfacing to stabilize collars, cuffs, and plackets, ensuring a polished and professional look. Coats, jackets, and winter garments typically incorporate interlining to provide warmth and softness, enhancing the overall comfort of the piece. Some high-end tailored garments use both interfacing for sharp structure in key areas and interlining for body, warmth, and drape.
While interfacing and interlining may seem similar at first, they serve distinct and complementary purposes in garment construction. Interfacing provides structural support and reinforcement for specific areas, ensuring a crisp and professional appearance. Interlining focuses on warmth, comfort, and enhancing the drape of the garment, often covering larger sections of fabric. Understanding the differences between these two materials allows sewists and designers to create garments that are both functional and aesthetically pleasing. By choosing the right interfacing and interlining for each project, you can achieve the perfect balance of structure, comfort, and style, whether you are crafting delicate blouses, tailored jackets, or cozy winter coats.